Click here for a pattern.
Lace collars are a very traditional use of lace. How do we make such a thing?
First, think of the shape. It is a curved strip, or perhaps a circle with a hole in the middle. This is not a problem. Read the page on roundels. The pattern is really a strip, but bent round into the shape you want. A proper roundel is a complete circle, with the threads coming out of the end attached to the start to make it continuous. A collar is simpler than that, since probably it is not a complete circle. There is likely to be a gap at the front or back, where the garment is fastened, or just as part of the design. You could think of it perhaps as more like a fan, although you probably need more of a circle than a normal fan.
You will need a pattern. I'm not sure who does these, but you can always design your own! See grids (scroll down for roundels).
The real problem is the size. The roundels on this website are small (they are mostly Christmas decorations!) A collar must be big enough to go round someone's neck. It can be quite narrow, but it must be long enough, and it is curved, which makes using a roller or even a block pillow difficult. The curve of the pattern will tend to gradually move off the roller, or even the blocks (unless you line the pattern up very carefully).
It might be possible to work the collar in more than one section. These could be sewn together. It is quite a good idea to make it into two parts at least. The start of lace is easy to make neat, while the end is often a bit messy, with knots and ends of threads. If the start and end are both in the front (one each side), the messy end might be more noticeable. Have two hales, put both starts in front, and knot (or sew) the ends together round the back. After all, the back doesn't matter so much!
The fan page gives another solution to this problem. Find something which can lie on top of the pillow which can hold the pattern (it doesn't have to hold the bobbins as well). I used a pizza base, but unfortunately they don't use polystyrene any more! But the cardboard they use now might work, except I think you'd need to prick the pattern while it was on top on the cardboard. I don't fancy trying to jab a pin through cardboard while working lace. The point of this method is that this support can be lifted off the pillow from time to time, and repositioned, so the bobbins stay on the pillow. The pins are held by the support, and so don't get disturbed.
However, I have thought of yet another idea for a collar. You could work a straight strip of lace (easy with a roller pillow or a block pillow). Make sure that one edge is quite loosely worked - no footside, and a simple ground next to it, like Torchon ground. That doesn't mind being distorted a bit. In fact, the whole point of footside is to stop the loose ground getting distorted! But this time, we want to. Here is an example of the type of pattern which will work.
Now using a needle and thread, thread through all the holes at the bottom. Once you've done this, change direction, and return threading the other way.
By pulling the two ends of the thread (which are now together) you can gradually create a curved piece. When you have the shape you want, knot the two ends together to keep it.
Since this is a weak edge, you will need to sew it carefully, making sure you catch threads from the lace itself, and don't just sew using the needle and thread threads (as that, if pulled, would distort the lace). In fact, I think it would be better to sew into the lace itself, which presumably is lying flat against the fabric of the garment.
I know the example on this page is too small for a real collar. But it proves the concept, and all that is needed is a much longer piece, with the centre part repeated.
© Jo Edkins 2018 - return to lace index