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Winkie pin cloth footside

cloth footsides
Winkie pin cloth footside next to Torchon ground. See pattern 178.

A winkie pin footside is simpler than a conventional footside. Instead of swapping worker and edge pair, the worker pair is worked through the passives, twisted, round the pin, then worked straight back across the passives to re-enter the lace. Its disadvantages is that it is not as strong as a conventional footside, and it is harder to sew to fabric. It would be easy to sew into the passives, which are not really part of the rest of the lace, and might pull out. If you sew into a winkie pin footside, make sure that the needle goes through the pinhole so it picks up the worker pair (which does connect to the rest of the lace).

The winkie pin footside is perhaps easier to understand than the conventional footside, so sometimes beginners are taught it, and you can replace a conventional footside by a winkie pin footside. However, if you want to follow a particular lace tradition, then you should follow its type of footside. Anyway, it is not that hard to understand a conventional footside!

This is a cloth winkie pin footside. The diagram shows two passive pairs. You can use as many as you want.

Pattern for cloth footside
Footside pattern

Traditionally, the pattern for a footside is a simple line of pinholes down the edge of the lace. This may be shifted slightly away from the rest of the lace, to give room for the passives. The passives themselves are not marked. You can see that the pattern does not show you what type of footside it is. I find this rather confusing, so in my patterns, I mark the workers and the passives.

This diagram shows each thread as a line. The stitches used in this footside are cloth stitch and twist single pair. The details of each stitch are not shown in detail below - follow the links in the previous sentence if you are not familiar with them.

Cloth footside

Repeat Step Back

Working: For two passives, you have three pairs. The right two pairs are the passives, and the left pair, coming in from the lace, is the worker pair. There is no edge pair.

You work the left pair from the lace across the passive pairs in cloth stitch. Twist the worker pair once or twice (according to preference - see below). Now you place the footside pin between the worker pair and the passives. Then work the worker pair back through both passive pairs, again in cloth stitch. Twist the worker pair before it returns to the rest of the lace.

Since the passives are always worked in cloth stitch, they never get twisted at all. The workers do get twisted as they leave the cloth stitch.

A winkie pin footside produces a slightly wobbly edge rather than a straight line. This might be considered a disadvantage, or you might prefer the look! If you twist the workers once at the pin, then the passives sit close to the edge (see photo). If you twist the workers twice (as in the diagram) or even more, then you get a little loop at the pin, a bit like a picot, which can be quite attractive.